Booderee: Bernie and the Botanicals

Cabbage palm

 After the early part of the night was disturbed by possums partying on and around my car I slept soundly and woke as dawn started to light the sky. Sunrise was tinging the horizon as I walked to the showers.

It was none too warm when I returned, but my down jacket soon had me feeling snug as I waited interminably for water to heat for coffee. 

As the sun rose, it promised warmth, and a few delightful little bird visitors flitted around my feet, presumably seeking non existent crumbs.

I packed up - as mentioned previously, an easy process and not at all time consuming.  I think it possibly takes me no longer to pack up my car from camping than to pack up from a night in an airbnb.

Swamp lily - Crinum pedunculatum

I headed to the Booderee Botanical Gardens, where I was to meet Bernie at 10am.  Bernie was to take me on a cultural tour.  I was there early, so went for a short walk around the entrance area of the gardens before I sat down in the sun (minus a couple of particularly warm layers that had been needed earlier) to wait.  

Bernie was a wonderfully kind, friendly and accomodating guide for the 1.5 hour trip.  He expanded on some of what I already knew and taught me a lot that I didn't know.  After get-to-know-you introductory chats, he talked a little about the mission that had originally occupied the site on which several of the maintenance type buildings now stand.  Apologies for any politically incorrect descriptions that follow, but I am unsure how to better describe what I learned.  I was absolutely shocked to learn that the children taken onto the mission were not only those of 'mixed' parentage but also those who were 'full blood' Aboriginals.  

Shield fern

I had known about the former but not really registered that the latter were also targeted.  That children were, at that time, brought from a very large geographical area, from nations beyond the extensive boundaries of the nation which calls the area home, resulted in very long term isolation from families into which they were born.  Bernie told me of 'aunties' who had only recently found their true people.   He also spoke about the longer term impact of that on some parts of their society and the social problems arising.  It is a sad situation and I hope that progress may be made soon to help so many of his people, and other indigenous nations, move forward in positive directions.

He then proceeded to give me a short tour of the Koori garden, discussing the food plants as well as the medicinal plants.  

Epacris longifolia

The first was swamp lily:  the base of the leaves with a sap that would neutralise the sting of a bluebottle, and fibrous stuff that supported the sap that could be wound around a wound to form a natural dressing. Then there was a demonstration of making ropes from the fibre of the cabbage palm and he told how the base of the new fronds is edible but that they don't enter eat them because it tends to kill the plant.

He also talked about the cycads and the fruit from the cycad which is poisonous. It's full of cyanide but at soak the fruit in a running water for a few days and then bake it, the cyanide is removed and the fruit is edible.

The lake in Booderee National Park

He showed me how the lomandra leaves were edible at the very base and how the rest of the leaf could be shredded to weave into dilly bags - but he wasn't going to show me how that was done, as that is women's business.

The flowers of the native hibiscus were fermented to make a drink which aided the men, at coroborree time, to reconnect with the dreamtime.

Lemon scented tea tree was used as a natural insect repellant and to make refreshing drinks.

Callistemon, I think

I was shown the sweet sarsaparilla and given a leaf to chew with the warning that I needed to put up with the initial bitter flavour for a moment - I cannot taste bitter and my tastebuds went straight to the delicious sarsaparilla flavour.

Bernie told me about the anaesthetic properties of the sap of the bloodwood:  the sap can be worked into a gum, which when applied to delicate tissues, provides a numbing of the area.  Particularly useful during the ceremonies for a boy when his teeth are knocked out as part of his initiation into manhood.  I queried and yes, the practice is still used.  Bernie talked about his own experience some years before - he has not lost his front teeth in the ceremony, but one of his molars.

At Cave Beach

The leaf of the native fig has a very rough surface and was used as sandpaper to smooth wooden items.  The fruit, although small, is supposed to be delicious and is best collected by shaking the tree and picking up from the ground.

After his tour finished, I spent another hour or more exploring the rest of the Botanical Gardens, enjoying the flowers, appreciating the labels for many, and hoping for a glimpse of monitor lizards or tortoises at the lake.  Unfortunately I saw neither.

I headed down to check out Cave Beach, a delightful beach, appropriately named for a very dominant feature at one end.  There were many other rock features that were interesting.

At Cave Beach

On the way I diverted to the lookout, which provided views of a couple of pods of whales heading north on their migration.

It was an excellent place to have lunch.  

I had planned walking to the next beach, Bherwerre Beach, but as I had some trouble finding the start of the track to it, I contented myself with chatting with the resident kangaroos, including one much smaller one - maybe one of the wallaby, which was sitting in the middle of the track ignoring everyone coming and going, and returning to my car.

At Cave Beach

I headed south, acknowledging that visiting Bateman's Bay Botanical Gardens would not happen on this visit, as Jane and Drew were expecting me at Moruya for the night and I was determined to arrive before dark, this time.

I had decided that I would stop at East Lynne - just because I could.  And because Google told me that the local shop made the most amazing pies, including raspberry pies.  Well, it seems that East Lynne IS the local shop - there was no evidence of anything else, and it was closed for a couple of months or so for renovations, so raspberry pies were not to be sampled.  Probably for the best for my general comfort.

Eastern Grey Kangaroo at Cave Beach picnic spot

Upon inquiring of Jane what I could contribute towards dinner, she had asked me to stop at Hayden's Pies in Ulladulla and procure 1 meat and 1 veg pie.  I had to choose the veg - between 2 options that both sounded outrageously delicious though again, probably best that I not indulge.  Jane had said frozen was OK, so frozen it was, as they were destined for her freezer for later.  We dined on a superb chicken casserole that evening.

A solo little one in the middle of the track

While still en-route to Jane and Drew's I stopped off at BWS in Bateman's bay for another appropriate contribution to dinner.  What should have been a 5 minute detour was not assisted by Maps repeatedly telling me to turn into streets that had signs telling me otherwise.  I eventually purchased what I desired and managed to escape the carpark by virtue of ignoring the instructions emanating from my phone and simply returning to the Princes Highway and continuing south.

cowfish and old wife panels

I reached the outskirts of Moruya as sunset colours were starting to tinge the hills, and the colours of sunset simply became more stunning - striping the sky overhead, but fading by the time I arrive at Jane and Drew's.  It was lovely to see them again, and to be welcomed warmly.  

I also took the opportunity to photograph my handiwork of a few years back - the underwater themed light shade in tiffany/copperfoil work.  Commissioned by Jane, and designed collaboratively by her and me, I do have to say so myself that it is rather stunning.

skate and cuttlefish panels

Seal and dolphin panels

We had a lovely evening and once again we were not short of things to talk about.  Jane was keen to provide me with lots of information, suggestions and advice about my ongoing journey southwards - which would be at a much more leisurely pace than the journey northwards.

Jane, me and the lampshade.